Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always defined its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.